Monday, March 16, 2009

Solace at La Sebastiana

Nothing soothes the soul like poetry...or the former haunt of a great poet. I indulged in both after a rough week (thanks to Caitlin for equipping me with Viente poemas de amor y una cancion desesperada/Twenty Love Poems and a Song of Desperation and to Pablo Neruda for building a stunningly beautiful house in Valparaiso).

...occasionally rewarded by murals and other interesting sites...
...until we finally arrived! La Sebastiana, the Valparaiso home of Pablo Neruda, famed Chilean poet, political activist, exile, and Nobel prize winner for Literature.
This is the museum side. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to capture the amazing exterior of the house...but photos abound on the internet and this may not be my last visit... These days Neruda is here only in spirit and this bench.The Pacific Ocean went off the map! There was nowhere to put it. It was so big, messy, and blue that it didn't fit anywhere. That's why they left it in front of my window. (Pablo Neruda)Oh, you're right--there it is! See, you could win a Nobel prize too...El nube (the cloud), Neruda's favorite writing chair.
Because you were dying to know, here is the recipe for Neruda's drink of choice, which he prepared behind his own personal bar: equal parts cognac and champagne with a little cointreau and some drops of orange juice for subtle flavor. Sadly, this information would be the only detail of interest to many of my study abroad compatriots...
It turned out to be a poetic neighborhood. A couple of blocks away we stumbled upon three legends of Chilean literature...albeit in bronze form. Here I am reading with Gabriela Mistral.
Chilling with Vicente Huidobro.
And loving on Pablo Neruda.
You can cut all the flowers, but you won't hold back the spring. I wouldn't mind having this in my front yard.
Calle Ferrari.
Painted by PUCV students.
Father Sea, we already know your name...
Our reward after quite a hike and the whimsical fancies of La Sebastiana: yummy sandwiches and REAL COFFEE (a caffe latte...with espresso...no Nescafe here, HA) from Illy!

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